There's a lot of ways to plot out stages in the course of designing them, and we modernes tend to think in terms of computers as the go-to tool. But even
the best of the CAD systems are still pretty two-dimensional, and pretty slow, too.
Here's what works for me:
All of the parts are on the 1:12 scale, meaning an eight-inch piece equals eight feet of real-life course. That way it's easy to plot out such things as minimum distance to steel and to actually eyeball sight lines.
Then, when you're done, snap a digital picture, print it out, and take it to the range for setup.
Simple, fast, positive, cheap.
The silhouettes are slices of particle board; the walls are parting stop (1/2x3/4" stock pine). The yellow paper square is both the starting position and the label so you can remember which stage it is.
I use an old 35mm film can for a barrel. I label certain silhouettes as dropturners or whatever and use THHN insulated building wire to show operating cables. If you're doing USPSA, ordinary yellow pencils do nice fault lines.
Design faster!
Bill
Here's what works for me:
All of the parts are on the 1:12 scale, meaning an eight-inch piece equals eight feet of real-life course. That way it's easy to plot out such things as minimum distance to steel and to actually eyeball sight lines.
Then, when you're done, snap a digital picture, print it out, and take it to the range for setup.
Simple, fast, positive, cheap.
The silhouettes are slices of particle board; the walls are parting stop (1/2x3/4" stock pine). The yellow paper square is both the starting position and the label so you can remember which stage it is.
I use an old 35mm film can for a barrel. I label certain silhouettes as dropturners or whatever and use THHN insulated building wire to show operating cables. If you're doing USPSA, ordinary yellow pencils do nice fault lines.
Design faster!
Bill
